New Book Alert: The Last Collection: A Novel of Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel by Jeanne Mackin; Fun, Juicy, Stylish Novel Explores The Rivalry Between Two Fashion Icons

New Book Alert: The Last Collection: A Novel of Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel by Jeanne Mackin; Fun, Juicy, Stylish Novel Explores The Rivalry Between Two Fashion Icons




By Julie Sara Porter

Bookworm Reviews


Spoilers: The fashion world in the 1930’s was largely ruled by two women: Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. The two were different in style, politics, private lives, and temperament. So naturally the two hated one another and fought both verbally and physically. However, Schiaparelli and Chanel were two stylish, grandiose, larger-than-life figures who dominated everyone they came near. When they were together, it was a guarantee that sparks would fly. Jeanne Mackin explores the rivalry between the two fashion mavens in her novel The Last Collection, which is a fun novel that is drenched in juicy gossip, catty bitchiness, and elegant style.

In some ways, The Last Collection reminds me of Feud: Bette and Joan, the miniseries which explored the rivalry between Joan Crawford (Jessica Lange) and Bette Davis (Susan Sarandon) and how the two divas argued on the set of Whatever Happened to Baby Jane and off the set. In both, the rivalry between two colorful figures are explored as we learn they are more alike than they realize. What was true for Crawford and Davis is also true of Schiaparelli and Chanel at least through Mackin's writing.

Schiaparelli and Chanel are explored as a study in contrasts in the novel. Schiaparelli, called Schiap by her friends, is a warm, charming, eccentric figure. Chanel is more regal, polished, and standoffish. Schiaparelli favors a more whimsical fashion style using bold colors, embellishments such as animal and musical notes on her clothing, and hats shaped like shoes. Chanel’s look is more formal and sedate with dark colored early-era power suits and elegant gowns. Schiaparelli had one bad marriage and dotes on her sometimes exasperated daughter, Gogo. Chanel has no husband or child but plenty of lovers. Schiaparelli is a liberal socialist who loses clients because she refuses to serve people with Nazi ties. Chanel is more conservative and doesn't mind cozying up to German officials sometimes horizontally.

Despite their apparent differences, the two designers are also similar in many respects. They are both flashy characters who walk into a room as though they own everything and everybody inside. They are both strong-willed women of immense creative talent and business sense. They also share the aesthetic ideal that fashion is more than just pretty clothes and accessories. They see fashion as being indicative of someone's personal style that tells the world who that person is. They are also hot-tempered cutthroats who will do just about anything to get the better of each other.


With their extreme egos, overbearing flashiness, and penchant for drama, the two fashion designers go through extreme lengths in their rivalry. Schiaparelli takes great delight in stealing a high priced client from Chanel. Chanel retaliates by greeting Schiaparelli at a formal event with an embrace. Oh yeah and Schiaparelli is in front of some candles and Chanel can't resist leaning her rival ever so slightly closer to them. Well you can guess what happens next. (Reportedly, this incident was true to life.)

They also take verbal swipes at each other particularly after Chanel starts seeing a man with Nazi ties and Schiaparelli accuses her of being a collaborator. When the Designer Duo are together, one has the urge to call a lion tamer or a boxing match referee to force the two back into their corners until the next round.


Chanel and Schiaparelli are two bombastic larger-than-life personalities that dominate the novel so much that they overpower the other characters. To Mackin's credit, she wrote some interesting characters that contrast with them. Lily Sutter, the narrator, is a mousy recent widow visiting her wayward brother, Charlie, in Paris and gets swept up into the duo's fashion world by working for Schiaparelli as a window display designer, companion for Gogo, and a spy between the two fashion houses. In the process, Lily befriends both designers finding tenderness and vulnerabilities behind their facades.


Lily and her friends are well-rounded characters. Charlie is particularly charming as is his mistress, the elegant and married Ania. Lily also has some sweet moments with Otto, a German musician-turned-driver who is the farthest thing from a Nazi. In working closely with Schiaparelli and Chanel and becoming involved with Charlie's love life as well as her own, Lily learns to let go of her grief towards her husband's death and move on. In another novel, these characters would stand out and be the most memorable aspects. However, Chanel and Schiaparelli leave such a bold presence that everything else without them seems like filler. Heck, Willy Wonka would have a hard time standing out among these two.

The Last Collection is a fun stylish tour de force inside the world of fashion in pre-WWII France. Like an elegant gown, it stands out and just asks to be admired.